Uluwatu Temple stands on the edge of a vast cliff around 70 metres above the Indian Ocean. On one side is an ancient Balinese temple; on the other, sheer rock and open sea.
The essential moment begins before sunset. In the open-air amphitheatre, dozens of performers stage the Ramayana through the rhythmic Kecak chant while the sun drops into the ocean. Arrive early, walk along the cliffs and keep glasses, phones and anything shiny away from the resident monkeys.